Cov txheej txheem ntawm dyeing fabrics suav nrog kev siv cov xim (dyes lossis pigments) rau cov ntaub ntawv textiles -xws li fibers, yarns, los yog tiav fabrics- nyob rau hauv ib txoj kev uas ua kom cov uniformity, durability (ceev ceev), thiab xav tau kev zoo nkauj. Thaum txoj kev sib txawv ntawm hom fiber ntau thiab kev siv kawg, cov txheej txheem dyeing ua raws cov theem tseem ceeb no:
1. Ua ntej-Kev Kho Mob (Kev Npaj)
Ua ntej dyeing, fabrics yuav tsum tau ntxuav kom tshem tawm tej yam ntuj tso impurities, roj, waxes, los yog sizing agents uas thaiv dye absorption.
* Scouring: Tshem tawm cov roj, rog, thiab siv quav ciab (tshwj xeeb hauv paj rwb / ntaub plaub).
* Bleaching: Whitens ntaub thiab tshem tawm cov xim ntuj (xws li, lignin hauv paj rwb).
* Mercerization (rau paj rwb): Txhim kho luster, lub zog, thiab xim affinity.
* Tshav kub (rau cov khoom siv xws li polyester): Stabilizes ntaub qhov ntev.
✅ Lub Hom Phiaj: Ua kom muaj hydrophilic, nqus tau, thiab huv si saum npoo txawm dyeing.
2. Dye Selection & Recipe Preparation
Xaiv cov xim zoo raws li hom fiber ntau:
| Hom Fiber | Dye Class |
| Paj rwb, Linen | Reactive, Direct, Vat |
| Wool, Silk | Acid, Hlau - nyuaj |
| Polyester | Tshem tawm |
| Nylon | Acid los yog Disperse |
| Acrylic | Basic (Cationic) |
Daim ntawv qhia da dej dye yog npaj nrog:
* Xim
* Pab:
Leveling agents (xyuas txawm tias dyeing)
Dispersing agents (rau disperse dyes)
pH buffers (piv txwv li, acetic acid rau acid dyes, soda tshauv rau reactive dyes)
3. Dyeing Application (Cov txheej txheem tseem ceeb)
Cov txheej txheem nyob ntawm cov khoom siv thiab cov nplais ntau lawm:
A. Tso quav (Batch) Dyeing - Feem ntau yog rau cov ntaub
* Npuag thiab zas da dej yog rhuab ua ke.
* Dye maj mam hloov los ntawm cawv → fiber ntau dhau sijhawm.
* Siv dav hlau, muag muag, winch, HTHP tshuab.
* Zoo tagnrho rau cov khoom me me-nruab nrab thiab siab -cov xim zoo nkauj.
B. Nruam Dyeing - Siab - ntim ntau lawm
1. Padding: Npuag dhau los ntawm cov tshuaj dye → nyem los ntawm chais (xaiv- nce ~ 60–80%).
2. Kev ziab: cua kub lossis infrared.
3. Kev kho:
* Chav (rau reactive / vat dyes)
* Siab -temp ci (rau disperse dyes ntawm polyester - Thermosol txheej txheem)
4. Ntxuav-tawm: Tshem tawm cov xim tsis muaj xim.
✅ Qhov zoo tshaj plaws rau woven fabrics hauv ntau lawm (xws li, tsho, tsev textiles).
C. Ib nrab-Dyeing txuas ntxiv
* Ua ke padding nrog batch steaming lossis batching (xws li, txias ncoo batch rau reactive dyes).
4. Kub thiab sijhawm tswj
Qhov tseem ceeb rau dye diffusion thiab fixation:
* Paj Rwb (reactive dye): 60-80℃rau 30-90 min + alkali fixation.
* Polyester (disperse dye): 130℃rau 30-60 min hauv HTHP tshuab.
Wool (acid dye): 98-100 degree, pH 2-5.
Ramp tus nqi yuav tsum tau tswj kom tsis txhob barre (streaks) los yog unevenness.
5. Tom qab kho (Soaping & Ntxuav-Tawm)
* Soaping: Kho cov ntaub dyed nrog kub detergent tov rau:
Tshem tawm cov dyeing nto / unfixed dye
Txhim kho qhov ceev ceev thiab xim clarity
* Rinsing: Txias → sov → dej txias kom tshem tawm cov khoom seem.
* Kev kho mob zaum kawg (yeem):
Softeners (zoo txhais tes zoo)
Txhim kho cov neeg ua haujlwm (txhim kho ntub dej nrawm)
Dej / roj tshuaj tiv thaiv
⚠️ Hlais xab npum → tsis zoo nrawm thiab staining hauv kev ntxuav.
6. Kev ziab & ua tiav
Npuag yog qhuav (tenter ncej, lub tog raj kheej tshuab ziab khaub ncaws).
Tej zaum yuav tau txais kev kho tshuab lossis tshuaj tiav ntxiv (xws li, sanforizing, calendering).
Cov Kev Ntsuas Zoo
* Xim txuam (vs. qauv hauv qab D65, TL84 lub teeb ci)
* Kev ntsuas ceev: ntxuav, rub (crocking), lub teeb, hws
* pH & residual tshuaj
Environmental Considerations
* Dej siv: 80-150 L / kg ntaub (qis hauv dav hlau / airflow tshuab).
* Kev kho cov dej ntws tawm: Qhov tseem ceeb vim yog cov dyes, ntsev, thiab cov pab cuam.
* Cov qauv kev ruaj ntseg:
Tsawg cawv piv tshuab
Digital dosing
Ntsev-dawb reactive dyes
Waterless dyeing (xws li, supercritical CO₂ rau polyester)
